Calypso's Journal: Touring Galapagos

This was snorkeling with a difference. We spent an energetic day firstly swimming out and along the waters edge in the bay where we are anchored. What a delight! We saw dozens of tropical fish quite different to those on the Caribbean side, were privileged to encounter many sea turtles, an octopus and we even swam with the seals. The seals are totally non aggressive and any approach is merely out of curiosity. We’d swam quite far with the current to get there so were somewhat exhausted after finning back to the boats against it but it was well worth the effort.

The next activity entailed a walk over to an educational, interpretive centre that proved very interesting and informative. We spent a couple of hours learning about the history of Galapagos and the environmental issues and were impressed by the various programs in place to ensure its future. These included the implementation of windmills, water conservation, limitations on tourism, wildlife protection projects, growing organic crops, eradication of alien vegetation and a host of other issues and we were surprised at just how many fruit and vegetables this volcanic ground can produce. We followed this with a short hike up into the hills behind to look at the birds and vegetation before sunset chased us back to the lights of the town.

The following day was our island tour. Instead of taking an official tour of the island we, along with Vagabond, chose to simply hire a taxi for the occasion. A fellow cruiser had recommended Carlos and we were lucky enough to find him. He proved to fit the bill admirably and despite his minimal English, he managed to impart a lot of interesting information. He obviously loves to show off his island.

We started the tour with a visit to the tortoise center where these ancient creatures live in a protected environment. The first one we encountered was apparently over 100 years old. Five years ago, they started a breeding program as the species was threatened with extinction. Even today, rats and cats are a severe threat to the eggs and baby hatchlings as they take some five years to develop sufficiently enough to be released into their natural habitat. We were certainly impressed with the efforts made to ensure their survival.

Playa Chino was next on the agenda, a beautiful white, sandy beach amid the black volcanic rocks; quite a contrast. We then stopped at a most dubious looking restaurant, which served an amazingly good meal, fortifying us prior to heading up to the volcano. Just goes to show you can’t tell a book by it’s cover.

Galapagos was created by volcanic action millions of years ago and we read that this one, with El Junco Lagoon, is the only fresh water lagoon amongst all the volcanoes on all the islands. It serves as the main source of water for the little village of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno where water is a very precious commodity. No sooner had we arrived, took a few photos, when the clouds came over and doused us with a refreshing misty shower to cool us off. Very pleasant after the day’s heat.

Our last stop was to hop around the volcanic boulders in search of marine iguanas. These chaps are so incredibly well adapted to their environment, that we battled to spot them at first. They are exactly the same colouring as the lava rocks and truly prehistoric in appearance. One of them sat on a rock right in the breaking waves and didn’t turn a hair (scale or whatever) despite the fact that a larger being would have been washed right off the rocks.

In the days prior to the mass pillaging of tortoises and other marine life, Galapagos must have been a truly amazing sight with huge land tortoises, flightless birds, strange lizards and the volcanic scenery. No wonder they have been of so much interest to scientists throughout the years and thank goodness they were recognized as a natural wonder and proclaimed a protected region.

We’re hoping to do a dive at a place called Kicker Rock where the hammerhead sharks abound. And we still have to get over to Santa Cruz to visit the Darwin Centre. Still so much to do. Fortunately, we’ve just received news from French Polynesia that Paul’s visa, which is dated 1^st May, won’t come into effect until we arrive. We thought it would begin ticking away on that date regardless and as we are running three weeks behind schedule, it would really cut into our time allowed there. The word “schedule” doesn’t really exist in this lifestyle.

PHOTO GALLERY:

The Tortoise Centre