More Around Durban

Umhlanga Rocks with Durban city in the background

Having now spent several weeks here in Durban, we have done a complete 360° turn in our thought processes.  We had been warned on many occasions that we should give it a miss: it was a dangerous, dirty and derelict place and, in many respects, the inner city is just that. However, there is a whole other side to the area which is beautiful, charming, upbeat and modern and we can see why it's still such a popular place to live.

 

In addition to the areas friends had taken us previously, we decided to visit the UShaka Marine World aquarium which proved to be a real treat and definitely of world class calibre.  The marine world is a theme park which incorporates the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere and extends for 500 metres through a series of superbly designed old shipwrecks and each and every display was designed to represent the natural habitat of the sea creatures represented within.  We were most impressed and ended up spending the entire day wandering around the exhibits.

Also impressive was the beachfront region from the southern end of the city all the way to the new sports stadium in Durban North.  Lovely walk and cycle tracks have been built right the way along with well maintained gardens and sidewalk eateries.  This part has come a long way indeed.

Nearby the marina is Wilson's Wharf, a somewhat run down touristy pier but which offers one of the best of Durban's famous bunny chow.  You haven't been to Durban if you haven't had a bunny chow and it's not what you might think.  

In reality, it is half a loaf of bread with the inner cut out, filled with curry (it really should be mutton curry) and topped with the cutout piece of bread with more curry sauce poured over that.  It was always a very popular fast food tradition and still is in most places but it has now become a slightly more refined plate in the more touristy cafés.

The Real Deal

Chilling out in the Lighthouse Bar

Our old Tabler friends, Peter and Lilian, picked us up one day to drive us around Umhlanga Rocks which has developed enormously in the years since our last visit.  The entire town has a very fashionable European-like holiday town feel about it with dozens of sidewalk cafés, trendy shops and luxury apartments but has retained the wonderful old colonial hotel, The Oyster Box, where the likes of Charlize Theron and the Monaco royals have stayed.  We stopped for a drink in their magnificent Lighthouse Bar and felt a world away from our vagabond life aboard Calypso.

With Peter and Lilian

  


After taking in the sights of the town, our hosts treated us to a wonderful lunch at one of their favourite restaurants where we indulged in a delicious curry the likes of which only Durban can offer.  We were really spoiled and loved every second of it.  Thank you so very much Peter and Lilian.

Our friends Joe and Faatima invited us back to their home for lunch so we were, again, treated to a fabulous meal and Joe was able to help Paul with a puzzling computer problem. We must have done something right in our lives to deserve such friendship from everyone. Our sincere thanks all 'round.

On the slightly negative side, we haven't been able to leave as planned due to the foul weather systems that keep coming through.  Several times we thought there's a window long enough to get us down to East London but closer to the time, that shuts down so we await the next - and the next.  We're certainly not complaining as we've thoroughly enjoyed our stay but it really is time to move on.

PHOTO ALBUM:

An old ship housing the aquarium

Umhlanga Rocks waterfront

On the Oyster Box Hotel balcony

Umhlanga Pier