Pooped!

Just prior to leaving Durban, we were invited to our friend's son's school to talk to them about yachts and sailing around the world.  There were ten 5 and 6 year olds whose usual attention span lasts for all of five minutes but we took along our balloon globe to show them where we'd been and Paul took some ropes to teach them how to tie a bowline.  It really was really quite fun!  

But it was now time to say farewell.

After checking the weather for nearly two weeks, we and a dozen other yachts, finally found a good long window that would get us further down the coast.  We chose to only go as far as East London as we wanted to see some friends we had met in Indonesia, Harry and Patti.  It was their house in Jepara where we stayed the last couple of months while Harry spent most of his time on business in Japan and we stayed to keep his gorgeous ginger cat, Whiskey, company. They actually have their South African home just up from here and Harry is back here for a brief stay so perfect timing.

The "Wild Coast" of South Africa is named such for a very good reason.  If you were to study a navigational chart of this coastline, you'd see reference to "abnormal waves"; waves that can break an enormous tanker in two.  Therefore travelling these waters is not to be taken lightly which is why we all waited so long to be given a long enough weather window to get down here.

Well, we were given it (or so we thought) about four or five days that could get us all the way down to Mossel Bay had we wanted that.  Yeah right!  Five days turned into about 40 hours at which stage it turned turtle - certainly not what all the weather gurus had predicted at all.  Nevertheless, we made it in 37 hours with good winds but.....(yup, there always has to be a 'but') we were screaming along at 10 to 14 knots thanks to a 4 knot current, with a postage stamp sized head sail up and were thoroughly enjoying it until one damned rogue wave decided to target us and suddenly things changed.  From a brilliantly enjoyable and super fast sail, we got severely pooped!  For our non-seafaring friends, the  definition of pooped is: .....

poop

puːp/

verb

past tense: pooped; past participle: pooped

1. (of a wave) break over the stern of (a ship), sometimes causing it to capsize.

   "off Rame Head we were badly pooped"

................................

Yup, we got pooped - big time!  One lone wave broke over our port quarter and literally flooded the cockpit which had the only open port lights and, of course, the open companionway down to the saloon and galley.  I had just gone down for my off duty rest, brought out my PC to check something when I was suddenly washed off the bed - literally!  As I picked myself up (I thought we'd been knocked down and were sinking), I saw a massive waterfall of water pouring through the port lights into the galley, over the counters and washing through everything in its way.   We were seriously flooded.

In its wake, it wiped out the command mic, the fridge/freezer, the stove, the galley light and the battery management system and my dear little laptop PC which took the full brunt, not to mention the bedding, seating, cushions, clothing, lazerettes, cupboards, drawers and everything else imaginable that was drowned in the process.  

Immediately afterwards, it was back to brilliant conditions so Paul managed to dry out and resuscitate the command mic then proceeded to work on the fridge and stove.  He got one burner working (hallelujah we can cook), but the other two just gurgle.  We got my PC to a shop immediately upon arriving but, sadly, it's toast (damn, double damn) and after another few hours working on the compressor for the freezer, we have had to come to the sad conclusion; it's never going to work again!

We were offered a spot on the walk-on moorings so we could start drying things out which was a tremendous help and in the meantime, Harry and Patti arrived bearing some very welcome gifts - so fabulous to see them again.   They were a tremendous help by taking away our sodden carpets and towels etc to dry out at their home as the weather turned nasty and wet which wasn't a big help under the circumstances.

In all our 12 years, we've never experienced such an event.  We've heard about people getting pooped and now we know, first hand, what it actually means.  Calypso has a central cockpit which is ideal in a cruising boat as it very rarely ever allows even splashes into the inner sanctums but a full fledged dump was something we never expected or have experienced in the past.

The following day, Harry and Patti came over again to take us out for dinner and arrived bearing more gifts whch included two new pillows to replace our sodden, malodourous old ones, as well as all our laundry beautifully washed and dried.  How kind!  We'll need to win the lottery to start repaying so much of the kindness we've received.

Paul has managed to order a part for the freezer in the hopes that that will remedy the situation but we've basically lost all our frozen foodstuffs.  The part will take a few days to arrive so we'll just continue drying things out and cleaning up.

PHOTO ALBUM:

Sorry, none: computer drowned.

More Around Durban

Umhlanga Rocks with Durban city in the background

Having now spent several weeks here in Durban, we have done a complete 360° turn in our thought processes.  We had been warned on many occasions that we should give it a miss: it was a dangerous, dirty and derelict place and, in many respects, the inner city is just that. However, there is a whole other side to the area which is beautiful, charming, upbeat and modern and we can see why it's still such a popular place to live.

 

In addition to the areas friends had taken us previously, we decided to visit the UShaka Marine World aquarium which proved to be a real treat and definitely of world class calibre.  The marine world is a theme park which incorporates the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere and extends for 500 metres through a series of superbly designed old shipwrecks and each and every display was designed to represent the natural habitat of the sea creatures represented within.  We were most impressed and ended up spending the entire day wandering around the exhibits.

Also impressive was the beachfront region from the southern end of the city all the way to the new sports stadium in Durban North.  Lovely walk and cycle tracks have been built right the way along with well maintained gardens and sidewalk eateries.  This part has come a long way indeed.

Nearby the marina is Wilson's Wharf, a somewhat run down touristy pier but which offers one of the best of Durban's famous bunny chow.  You haven't been to Durban if you haven't had a bunny chow and it's not what you might think.  

In reality, it is half a loaf of bread with the inner cut out, filled with curry (it really should be mutton curry) and topped with the cutout piece of bread with more curry sauce poured over that.  It was always a very popular fast food tradition and still is in most places but it has now become a slightly more refined plate in the more touristy cafés.

The Real Deal

Chilling out in the Lighthouse Bar

Our old Tabler friends, Peter and Lilian, picked us up one day to drive us around Umhlanga Rocks which has developed enormously in the years since our last visit.  The entire town has a very fashionable European-like holiday town feel about it with dozens of sidewalk cafés, trendy shops and luxury apartments but has retained the wonderful old colonial hotel, The Oyster Box, where the likes of Charlize Theron and the Monaco royals have stayed.  We stopped for a drink in their magnificent Lighthouse Bar and felt a world away from our vagabond life aboard Calypso.

With Peter and Lilian

  


After taking in the sights of the town, our hosts treated us to a wonderful lunch at one of their favourite restaurants where we indulged in a delicious curry the likes of which only Durban can offer.  We were really spoiled and loved every second of it.  Thank you so very much Peter and Lilian.

Our friends Joe and Faatima invited us back to their home for lunch so we were, again, treated to a fabulous meal and Joe was able to help Paul with a puzzling computer problem. We must have done something right in our lives to deserve such friendship from everyone. Our sincere thanks all 'round.

On the slightly negative side, we haven't been able to leave as planned due to the foul weather systems that keep coming through.  Several times we thought there's a window long enough to get us down to East London but closer to the time, that shuts down so we await the next - and the next.  We're certainly not complaining as we've thoroughly enjoyed our stay but it really is time to move on.

PHOTO ALBUM:

An old ship housing the aquarium

Umhlanga Rocks waterfront

On the Oyster Box Hotel balcony

Umhlanga Pier

 

Durban

Stopping off in Durban was a trip down memory lane.  For eleven years, (1972-83) we lived in Westville, a suburb in the hills just west of the city.  The inner city has changed dramatically since those days and, unfortunately, not for the best as it's virtually a no-go area now due to crime and decay.  However, we were happy to find that this is far from the case with the outlying suburbs, many of which have grown enormously with beautiful homes, malls, parks and developments. 

Durban is a subtropical city on the east coast of Kwa-Zulu Natal and is South Africa's busiest port.  The population of it and surrounding suburbs is now over 3.5 million.  I can't remember what it was in our day but nothing of that magnitude.

Moses Mabhida Stadium (photo pinched from web)

The World Cup soccer which took place in South Africa in 2010 created a very positive influence on Durban with its enormous Moses Mabhida Stadium (I still haven't found out who he is/was) and a major revamp of the waterfront beaches incorporating the Ushaka Marine World (very impressive).






Despite having being advised not to bother stopping here, we chose to do so primarily as it was the closest marina where we could safely leave Calypso while visiting our friends for Christmas.  In addition, Paul had wanted to meet up with some of the chaps who he was with during his Round Table days way back when and although many of the folk we knew have either moved away or passed on, there were still a couple around whom we wanted to see again.  

Our first social activity was a get-together of the old Round Table group and their wives.  We were collected by Peter and Lilian Benson, who we haven't seen in a month of Sundays (like 30-odd years!) and it was as though we'd seen them just a year ago.  We spent a wonderful evening chatting, getting to know old friends and new, answering questions and telling tales of our adventures. Wish we could meet up more often and make this a regular event.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take my camera.

Peter and Lilian drove us around our old neighbourhood and many of the new ones.  There has been massive developments over the intervening years.  We had thought the area would have stagnated a bit but far from it.  Our old house looked pretty much the same but now with a huge wall built all around it which is, I guess, a sign of the times.  Our upper neighbour's house was looking a bit sad though and the lower one was also hidden behind huge walls.

 

Next we met up with Joe, an old friend who has since remarried and has now got a 5-year old son!  We spent a pleasant evening with them visiting a restaurant in a very imposing shopping mall out in the northern suburbs reminiscing about old times.  Great to catch up.









 

The following day, an old work colleague of mine and his partner, Cliff and Angie, who we'd also not seen for longer than I care to remember, came to the marina to collect us.  They took us to the marine world for a fabulous lunch overlooking the southern beaches.  This region had just been scrub bush in our day but now sports many new and exclusive residences.  They are keen campers, birders, photographers and all things nature, so we could relate well together.  It was such fun catching up with them as well.

Our own dive centre? Nope, pity.

Looking north towards the stadium

 

Celebrating with old friends

Durban Marina

Richard's Bay to Durban was an overnight trip with great sailing for the first half but, due to lack of wind later, the iron genny was switched on for the remainder.  The wind picked up as we arrived outside Durban Harbour but by then, we were right among the huge tankers so preferred to slalom our way through them under motor.

Christmas was a real treat this year.  We spent it with long-time friends down at their summer home south of Durban.  For us, this was the first occasion in many a year that Christmas included a houseful of children.  Our friends, Richard and Hazel, have managed to produce five grandchildren in our absence, all 12 years old and younger, 4 boys and one girl.  I think they thought we'd be horrified at the prospect of all the noise (and there was plenty of that!) but far from it.  It took us back to previous Christmas holidays when our daughter and her cousins were very young and we watched the excitement a visit from Santa Claus would bring.

Kate, Brent, Hazel, Malachi and Seth

Kate and Sebastian

Their house was in constant action as only a house full of nine adults, five kids and two dogs could conjure up: trips to the beach to swim, to fish, to fly kites: making havoc in their swimming pool, and the general chaos created by trying to cater for this lot especially as, several times, the entire region was without water for 24 hours or more.

On the subject of catering, I have NEVER eaten so much, so often and so well for as long as I can remember.  I KNOW I've gained a couple of kilos!  I don't think the constant supply of wine, champers and liqueurs helped either, but you didn't hear anyone complaining, not seriously anyway.

One interesting phenomena we came across was swarms of swallows.  We went off to Marina Beach to visit other friends as they had told us of the thousands upon thousands of swallows that settle down to nest in the reeds each and every night, and they weren't exaggerating.  Just as dusk was approaching, massive swarms appeared in the sky then starting swooping down past us to find their homes for the night in the grassy reeds.  The photo cannot possibly do it justice - it was quite a sight to see.

   


It really was super catching up on all the years we've been away.  A lot has changed here in South Africa in that time, some of it very good, some definitely not so good, but there is still a lot of love for the country and a wonderful life to be had albeit with a little more caution attached.  Our non-stop chats gave us a good insight into life here and each day, each conversation helped to put us in the current picture.

Hazel and I sharing memories

Finally 2017 rolled in without much of a bang from our side.  After the usual day of fresh air, a hearty meal and a few celebratory libations, our beds beckoned.  Llet us take this opportunity to wish you all, cruisers and landlubbers alike, a very happy, healthy, prosperous and peaceful 2017.  To the entire Norris family, a million thanks for such a wonderful time.

PHOTO GALLERY:

Richard and daughter, Kate

Storm brewing

Sundowners on the beach

The Boyz and friend

Brent and kite

Jamie, Adam and Carli visit Calypso

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