Our second stop after rounding Cap d'Ambre was in Andraponaomby, a large and well protected bay about 40nm south. We didn't drop the dinghy to go into the village as we were still trying to catch up with some sleep. Instead, the villagers came out to us in their canoes, each and every one bringing a gift of some sort; bananas, mangoes, limes and eggs. This seems to be their way of asking for something in return. Their villages are so remote and they are so poor that anything we could offer was very welcome.
While still in Mauritius, our riggers, a French couple Sophie and Hervé, gave us bags of children's clothing and shoes and asked that we distribute them to the poor villagers in this country.
The first chap who arrived at Calypso had his daughter with him so, we dug out this treasure trove to find a nice dress and a pair of shoes to fit her. Success! For him, we gave a t-shirt, cap and old spear gun elastic as well as soap for his wife.
The next canoe with two young chaps aboard, came bearing further small gifts and were desperately wanting some of our old ropes. We had been encouraged not to just give so we suggested that they bring us lobster or crabs in exchange.
Done deal as at 5:30 the following morning, we were woken with big grins and a bucket of crabs! They went happily away with ropes and caps and we, in turn, dug out our crab pot to prepare our lunch for the day. Such a wonderful encounter.
Another 30nm further down is Nosy Mitsio, an island with another large protected bay, and again we were approached by fellows in their dugout canoes. One chap rowed out to present us with some tomatoes and limes. In exchange we gave him a shirt, a cap and some soap. Another couple presented us with some strange pods from a tree which they claimed were not for eating but la flare ?? If my limited French could be trusted, I gathered they were things that you set afire to hang on a boat to light your way. Umm, not the best safety feature where there is fuel around so we gave that a miss. They also presented us with a plucked chicken! A scrawny looking character in a plastic bag and, considering that they had rowed three or four miles from their village in the heat of day to give it to us, we felt guilty but we declined that one as well. It's wonderful that they don't expect something for nothing and immediately want to know what we can trade. Love it!
We have travelled 9/10th of the way around the world, dragging items that we've either never used or simply don't use anymore. This is it! We had always said, when we get to Madagascar, it has all got to go - we are NOT taking it all the way back to South Africa with us. A bound and determined look through all our clothing revealed stacks of 'stuff' which has now been hauled out, never to go back into store again. Likewise for galley items, bags, old fabrics, fishing gear, etc.
At the moment there is British yacht anchored here so we rode over to suggest that we were going to go into the village to distribute all this if they were interested in joining us; well, coincidentally, they were preparing to do exactly the same! However, they suggested that we only take a small portion as the villages much further south were extremely poor and desperately needed these things even more. With that in mind, we both dinghied over to the village with smaller bags of offerings and received an amazing welcome and experience. A very memorable occasion and we were thrilled that we were able to help even a little.
On the fishing front, the fish tally stands at: Calypso* - 2, Fish** - 6, clg*** - 1
* hooked, caught and landed
** hooked and got away, usually with our lure and lines
***Caught and let go, e.g. too big? (highly unlikely), too small or undesirable
We think the fish here are way too big. Despite 150lb breaking strength, we've lost so much line and tackle; snap and it's gone!
PHOTO ALBUM:
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| The entire village came out to greet us |
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Trying on a pair of shoes
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Is this for me?!
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| Another cutie gets a top |
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| The village elder trying out a shirt |
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| Window covering |
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| Around the village |
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| New dugouts in the making |
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| Testing their new water source |
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| A zebu |
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