Calypso's Journal: Pulau Gaya

Back into a paradise. Pulau Gaya is a marine park which is usually off limits to visiting yachts but the rally gave us the opportunity to anchor right inside the large lagoon. It had never been a destination before as permission hadn't been granted previously so they weren't to know that it was actually too deep to comfortably drop anchor just outside the marine office, over 22 metres on a broken coral bottom which is never good holding. However, as long as we didn't get a squall, it shouldn't prove too much of a problem.

Crystal clear

On the first evening we all got together with the Maritim Malaysia and Marine Police officers for a pot luck dinner in a gorgeous setting just on the park's pier.

The following morning saw us up bright and early to climb to the top of the cliffs for the most spectacular view. Definitely well worth the effort.

The outer reefs also gave us a wonderful opportunity for snorkelling and diving where we found new fish and corals and lots of turtles. Our schedule and stopovers hadn't given us the chance to do much in the way of underwater investigations; the town waters are too dirty, the rivers had crocodiles and due to the security issues, we were rushed through a lot of the small islands, so this was heaven to those of us who'd been longing for coral reefs. The waters were clear, warm and teeming with life, nothing big other than the turtles but always such a thrill to be down there.

Our next stop was again up a river but a few of the deeper keeled boats such a Calypso, had to drop anchor on the outside of the sand bar at the entrance to await higher tides and even when we finally felt it high enough, we scraped through with barely and inch to spare.

Our biggest disappointment came at this point as one of the selling features of this rally was diving at Sipidan, one of the world's most beautiful dive sites. Only a very limited number are allowed at the site each day and permission has to be sought well in advance. For whatever reasons which remain a mystery, this permission was granted but the trip never materialised. Unfortunately, there were insufficient divers to really create a fuss but I, for one, was desolate; not a happy camper.

Our security detail came to an end once we arrived in Tawau, our last stop, and sadly, the night we were all at our farewell dinner, 5 boats were vandalised which left a slightly sour taste. None were serious, just cut and removed furling or davit lines, but the Minister of Tourism was so embarrassed that he handed out $100 to each boat as compensation and had some serious words to say to the police department that was meant to be protecting the anchorage. Just a pity that a wonderful trouble-free rally had to end like that.

Our time in Malaysian Borneo has come to an end. We now head back into Indonesia to wend our long way back towards Singapore. Last year we had no winds to take us through all the Indonesian islands. This year, we hear that the winds are excessive - perhaps we'll find the happy medium in there somewhere.

PHOTO GALLERY:
(Underwater shots & photo of Calypso courtesy of Ocelot)