The Tri-Coloured Lakes of Kelimutu

About a third of the way along the northern shores of Flores going westwards, is the town of Maumere and just outside that is an anchorage at Sea World Resort where the next festivities were to be held.

The anchorage, a bit like the last couple we've tried, was not an easy one. Again, it was incredibly deep until it gets too shallow right at the shoreline. By the time we arrived, the front row was taken up with all the cats and we attempted to drop anchor behind them but it was either too deep or the holding was impossible. After four attempts, we finally held in 30 metres in a very crowded anchorage but we seem to be lying OK.

The first thing we heard was that Laurie Gray, a British / South African couple, were looking for someone to share their car for a tour of the tri-colour lakes of Kelimutu. A golden opportunity as the advertised tours were just far too pricey – we grabbed the offer which was for the following morning.

The volcanic mountain of Kelimutu is a major tourist destination with its three crater lakes of varying colours. The amazing thing is that, despite the fact that they are at the crest of the same volcano, the colours of these lakes are all different and change periodically. No definitive reason has been given for these changes other than volcanic gases. The two together that are separated by a shared wall, are typically green/blue or red. These are named Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (Lake of Young Men and Maidens) and Tiwu Ata Polo (Bewitched or Enchanted Lake). When we visited, the first was a beautiful deep turquoise while the adjacent was a pale, milky turquoise. The third, named Tiwi Ata Mbupu (Lake of Old People) separated by a short distance, was dark green, almost black.

For the local people, these lakes are mystical and sacred and its not difficult to understand why.

The trip up was three and a half hours through some gorgeous mountain scenery where we passed magnificent terraced rice paddies. We also saw coffee plantations, cocoa trees, clove trees, bananas, coconut palms, fields of chillies, macadamias and some things we just didn't understand. Fortunately, the car came with a driver, without which, I doubt any of us would have dared to get behind the wheel to navigate between a gazillion scooters, chickens, goats, cows, pedestrians, dog and hundreds of other very wayward drivers. We took turns sitting up front; the 'suicide seat'. However, our driver was excellent, no dramas.

On the return trip, we stopped for some lunch/dinner which our driver had wisely advised that we order on the way up to ensure that we'd get it that day so, upon arrival, we had only a short wait before it was served.

A great day, thoroughly enjoyable and definitely worth the long trip there and back again.

PHOTO ALBUM:

(thanks to Kerstin for a couple of the photos)

Cocoa Trees

Traditional Indonesian Houses

Our tour guide?

Notice the smoking volcano in the distance

Taken from internet to show differing colours