Ilot Maitre, New Caledonia

The resort huts of Ilot Maitre

It's amazing that such a small population, only around 250,000, supports such an incredible array of goodies.  And here I'm talking primarily about food.  The choice is absolutely overwhelming.  They must load a couple of jumbo jets each week filled with nothing but wines, cheeses and delacies in order to supply the shops with so much from France.  But we're certainly not complaining.  The wines are really good and very reasonably priced after those of Fiji and New Zealand.

Some things are, as expected, hideously expensive but, as a whole, not that bad.  We had found in other French islands in the past, that things like dive gear were comparitively inexpensive.  We'd bought a few items in St Martin and also in Tahiti which proved to be much cheaper than anything in NZ.  So too, here.  After losing all our snorkelling gear in the storm, and realising that we had to replace some of it, we went into the big dive shop in town who gave us a decent discount so we purchased the bare essentials.  We had to be sure to have the basics for emergencies and, of course, before getting into those waters of Indonesia.  Reports indicated that Oz is not the place for a bargain.

We're currently anchored at a small resort island just outside Noumea.  When we arrived, it was somewhat like a millpond but the winds have whipped up and there are literally dozens of kite surfers making the most of it out there.  To make it even more appealing, they supply free mooring buoys and internet.

Unfortunately, both Paul & I got somewhat under the weather.  Me, with an incredibly sore throat (it felt as though I'd swallowed a log sideways) and Paul, with nasty tropical sores on his ankles (he and an elephant had definite similarities).  This meant no diving, swimming or scraping the bottom of the boat as planned.  After a couple of days, we gave up and went onto anti-biotics and are now, happily, coming right.

New Caledonia is considered by the UN, a non self-governing territory.  French is the official language, but recognised are Drehu, Nengone, Paici, Ajie, Xaracuu and 35 other native languages.  And I thought South Africa was bad enough with eleven. 

An independence referendum was held in the 80's but that was rejected by a large majority. They are to hold a second one in the next few years whereby, if the secessionists get their way, the name and all symbols could change.  I know every country yearns for their independence but, like French Polynesia, they seem to have just too much to lose should they secede.  I'm a pacifist who loves French red wine, French cheeses, French pâtés, French pastries, why change?

Port Moseley Marina

The local canoe club