En Route to New Zealand

Minerva Reef proved to be a rather interesting stopover. As we were preparing to leave the following morning, two other sailboats arrived in the lagoon. No sooner had they settled in when we were called on the radio by a military-looking vessel sitting just off the entrance to the pass. Without identifying themselves, we were questioned as to who we were, where we were from, where we had most recently checked out and where we were headed etc etc. 

We were then informed that we were in Fijian territory and were anchored illegally and must, therefore, leave immediately. Before long, a second vessel appeared outside the reef. When we had checked out of Tonga, we had been told that Minerva Reef was in Tongaan waters so we were now a little confused. They finally identified themselves as the Fijian Coast Guard and as this was their territory, we must leave or be arrested. As we were leaving anyway, it wasn't so much of an issue but we felt for the other two boats who had obviously looked forward to a night of rest. 

That day, I mentioned the encounter on the radio net and it now appears to have started a bit of an international issue. Tonga are definitely laying claim to the reef but these chaps were Fijian so... We'd heard that the Tongaans and Fijians weren't exactly the friendliest of neighbours and this could well sour relations further. A fellow cruiser already in New Zealand is making enquiries so it will be interesting to follow up.

We are now just a couple of hundred miles away from our destination and having a rather torrid time of it. It's been pretty rough out here and, therefore, a tad unpleasant. Also, it's freezing! I have great similarities to an Eskimo right now and it has nothing to do with skin tone or facial features but rather in the clothing I'm wearing. For six years, we've had warm clothing buried in the bottom of the boat somewhere and this has all been brought out again: socks, hats, gloves, boots, fleecy underclothes, foul weather gear, blankets and duvets. The water temperature has dropped from our usual 28-30ºC down to about 15ºC and we've still got another 200 nautical miles to go southwards.

I saw my first albatross today. Just a juvenile but what a wingspan! Other boats ahead of us tell us that there are quite a few around now so I will keep my eyes peeled whenever I dig up enough courage to poke my head out into the cold air. 

I remember all those bumper stickers at our yacht club back home saying "I'd rather be sailing". Well, I must confess, at this stage, I'm thinking of wearing a t-shirt with the slogan "I'd rather be gardening!" Once we arrive on terra firma, I know I'll soon forget but right now, digging up weeds certainly has a certain appeal.