As we arrived at Baie Tahauku, on the island of Hiva Oa, we were treated to an amazing escort of twenty to thirty dolphins playing in our bow wake; something which never fails to thrill us. However, once we got into the shallow water near the village of Atuona, the waters became very muddy looking and not at all appealing.
The anchorage was a bit small for the number of yachts and this meant placing out a stern anchor so as not to bump into your neighbour in the middle of the night. We immediately knew that we would do what we had to in the village and then leave the next day.
The two important issues were to get some Polynesian francs and to buy some diesel. We walked into the village in the rain, got ourselves some funds and stopped long enough to buy some baguettes and croissants Рthere is definitely something to be said for a French island. Couldn't quite get ourselves to splurge on a piece of brie and some pat̩ to enhance the baguette but the time will come.
The Marquesans take a long siesta so we had to sit around for quite a few hours waiting for the petrol station to open only to find that they ran out of diesel JUST as we got there and wouldn't receive more supplies until Tuesday (this was a Friday). Someway, somehow, we'll just have to manage without.
We upped anchor and headed off 12 miles south to the little bay of Vaitahu on Tahuata to meet up with Vagabond. On the way, Otto radioed us to tell us to pull in our fishing lines as they had caught a huge Wahoo on their way there and had far too much for the freezer and would we please help them eat some tonight. Fabulous but too late! No sooner had the conversation finished than I looked back at our lines and noted something rather large causing a wake. We hauled in, by far, the largest fish we've ever caught! It was a humungous Wahoo as well and way too much for our tiny freezer.
Between Vagabond and ourselves, the others in the anchorage did very well. Of course that evening, it was a case of a mines-bigger-than-yours spitting contest between Paul and Otto but it was graciously agreed that ours took first place. What a lot of fish and what fabulous, tasty fish it is too. I think its just become our favourite.
We stayed in this one anchorage for a week, wandered up through the hills amongst a thousand mango trees, collecting mangoes, oranges and some other fruit for which we still haven't found a name. We didn't dare pinch any of the bananas but had to admit that we could all quite happily stick around eating fresh fish and fruit off the trees for many weeks to come.
We went snorkeling, (Lil came face to face with a hammerhead and is still wary) watched dolphins in the bay and visited the beautiful church with its amazing stained-glass window; quite unexpected in such a tiny and remote village. Otto and Lillian attended the service on Sunday and after hearing their story, I regret not joining them (just couldn't get this old body out of bed in time).
Something that has really impressed us since arriving in French Polynesia is the structured lifestyle they appear to lead. Homes are kept neat and clean, gardens are well maintained and colourful, the paths and streets, however small, are swept, there are rubbish bins everywhere and the people definitely seem to keep pride in their appearance and belongings. And, the girls actually DO wear hibiscus or frangi-pani flowers behind their ears!
Time to leave on the overnight passage to Ua Pou so we lifted anchors just before sunset and set off. The winds were right on tap and all seemed perfect until…… Well this is where Paul has come forward with his version so I'll hand over to him for this saga.
PHOTO GALLERY:
The anchorage was a bit small for the number of yachts and this meant placing out a stern anchor so as not to bump into your neighbour in the middle of the night. We immediately knew that we would do what we had to in the village and then leave the next day.
The two important issues were to get some Polynesian francs and to buy some diesel. We walked into the village in the rain, got ourselves some funds and stopped long enough to buy some baguettes and croissants Рthere is definitely something to be said for a French island. Couldn't quite get ourselves to splurge on a piece of brie and some pat̩ to enhance the baguette but the time will come.
The Marquesans take a long siesta so we had to sit around for quite a few hours waiting for the petrol station to open only to find that they ran out of diesel JUST as we got there and wouldn't receive more supplies until Tuesday (this was a Friday). Someway, somehow, we'll just have to manage without.
We upped anchor and headed off 12 miles south to the little bay of Vaitahu on Tahuata to meet up with Vagabond. On the way, Otto radioed us to tell us to pull in our fishing lines as they had caught a huge Wahoo on their way there and had far too much for the freezer and would we please help them eat some tonight. Fabulous but too late! No sooner had the conversation finished than I looked back at our lines and noted something rather large causing a wake. We hauled in, by far, the largest fish we've ever caught! It was a humungous Wahoo as well and way too much for our tiny freezer.
Between Vagabond and ourselves, the others in the anchorage did very well. Of course that evening, it was a case of a mines-bigger-than-yours spitting contest between Paul and Otto but it was graciously agreed that ours took first place. What a lot of fish and what fabulous, tasty fish it is too. I think its just become our favourite.
We stayed in this one anchorage for a week, wandered up through the hills amongst a thousand mango trees, collecting mangoes, oranges and some other fruit for which we still haven't found a name. We didn't dare pinch any of the bananas but had to admit that we could all quite happily stick around eating fresh fish and fruit off the trees for many weeks to come.
We went snorkeling, (Lil came face to face with a hammerhead and is still wary) watched dolphins in the bay and visited the beautiful church with its amazing stained-glass window; quite unexpected in such a tiny and remote village. Otto and Lillian attended the service on Sunday and after hearing their story, I regret not joining them (just couldn't get this old body out of bed in time).
Something that has really impressed us since arriving in French Polynesia is the structured lifestyle they appear to lead. Homes are kept neat and clean, gardens are well maintained and colourful, the paths and streets, however small, are swept, there are rubbish bins everywhere and the people definitely seem to keep pride in their appearance and belongings. And, the girls actually DO wear hibiscus or frangi-pani flowers behind their ears!
Time to leave on the overnight passage to Ua Pou so we lifted anchors just before sunset and set off. The winds were right on tap and all seemed perfect until…… Well this is where Paul has come forward with his version so I'll hand over to him for this saga.
PHOTO GALLERY:
1 comment:
Ran out of Diesel? You obviously have the patience of Job.
I'm afraid I would have headed for the Brie and Pate...
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