Farewell dear Lady!

       

We have sold!  I'm not sure whether to laugh or cry, though the latter is definitely taking over at present.  We've sold to a wonderful couple who, along with their daughter, are hoping to follow in our wake.  I can think of nothing better than knowing our wonderful Calypso will be out there again pursuing another circumnavigation.  How special would that be!

Thirteen years of living aboard, over twelve of them experiencing people, places and adventures most cannot even dream of.  We have truly been blessed.  We'll definitely miss this lifestyle , in so many respects, we are already.  We daily receive blogs and emails from those who left us behind and a tinge of jealously does tend to creep in occasionally.

One era ends, another begins.  We are now busy packing up and as we endeavour to empty the boat of over 13 years of possessions, we have offloaded bags upon bags of "stuff" at my sister-in-law's.  She promptly took one look at her home being invaded more and more by the day and moved out!  Well in truth, she thought (very wisely so) that it would be best if she just visited a good friend for a few weeks, giving us the space and time to get our act together.  Thanks Jen, don't know what we would have done otherwise, you've saved the day!

Two things I'd been desperately wanting to do over the past couple of years were to have a thorough going over by a dermatologist (constantly living in the sun does take its toll) and also to see an opthamologist about my contunally deteriorating eyesight.  Until we sold Calypso, I really dared not spend the money but as soon as the funds were in our account, both specialists received a call from me.  Skin: I now look a little like a dalmatian - black blobs all over my body but, fortunately, nothing serious enough to be cut out.  Eyes: well, that's another issue; cataract surgery is on the cards but again, fortunately, nothing more serious than that.  So, no time like the present, I've already booked for both eyes to be attacked in July!

Fare thee well to our lovely lady, may you bring the same joy to your new owners as brought to us.

Life continues aboard

                          Enjoying a braai at the club under an incredible sky!

We continue to live aboard at the marina but it's getting mighty chilly now.  The water temperature is very cold (10-11°C) which of course, affects conditions inside the boat as the living quarters are primarily below water level.

We've had an offer; one that we turned down as it was far too low but we're still negotiating.  This couple want to leave to go cruising this year and need to make a decision soon but there is another couple who are planning on setting off in a year or two's time who are also interested so we wait to see what develops.  We are hoping things come to a head sooner rather than later as we wish to get on with the next stage of our adventures while it's still the so-called 'summer' in the northern hemisphere.

Cape Town has been suffering under severe drought conditions for the entire summer and the winter rains hadn't been forthcoming.  However, we've just experienced the worst storm in over 40 years!  The winds got up to 65 knots (75 mph or 120 kph) so there was a mad rush around the marina battening anything and everything possible.  Although it did bring some much needed rain, it was totally iinsufficient to have much of an affect on the dry dams.  Sadly, there were a few deaths and many people in the low lying flat areas have been left homeless.  The nearby Cape mountain ranges are covered with snow, even parts of Table Mountain.  Yup, it's cold!

No sooner did this pass than horrendous fires broke out up the east coast devasting Knysna and Plettenburg Bay.  Reports are still coming in of loss of lives, homes, animals etc.  Just disastrous!  On the positive side, the surrounding communities and businesses are really jumping in with food, clothing, shelter and medical assistance.  We just pray that they can get the fires under control and that there are no more lost lives and homes.

I've 'borrowed' a few of these amazing photos as I'm still without a computer and I can't manipulate pics on my iPad.  I need to win the lottery so I can afford a new lap top but someone mentioned that you actually have to buy a ticket to be in the running!

Before the storm:

The storm brewing over Skangkop (above) & looking out over Green Point, Cape Town (below)

During:

                                  Kali Bay Harbour

                                                               Cape Town

After:  Ooooops, False Bay Yacht Club - we can't walk ashore!

On the hard again and thoughts on SA

Probably for the last time before she goes to new owners, Calypso is up on the hard having her bottom painted and repairs to the scratch I managed to decorate her with the night of our calamitous arrival.

Paul has worked non-stop to put all things back into working order.  There were several issues that we weren't able to resolve due to the inconvenience or the inability of obtaining materials or parts in remote areas of Indonesia and Madagascar but fortunately, here in South Africa, most things are available.  The one annoying item that was not available was our blue anti-fouling paint.  Sorry folks, in that particular make, you have a choice of red or black; no blue.  Damn, so black it is.

We now have the option to return to Panama to live in our little casita in the mountains. We tell ourselves that we will not be leaving South Africa for political reasons but saying that, I have no desire to live in a country where corruption has become the norm and it's run by a thieving idiot!  At long last, it looks as though his support base might be crumbling but the country is showing major signs of following in the footsteps of every other defunct African nation.  When one sees that there's massive admiration for the likes of Robert Mugabe, it's time to think that hope is fading.  When Mandela came into power, there was unity and positivity but it couldn't be further from that ideal now.  Zuma has managed to create such major divisions between the races and I for one, don't wish to spend my remaining years constantly looking over my shoulder and apologising for the colour of my skin.

As one erudite columnist stated, "South Africa has reached its tipping point.  It is a stark choice.  Sack a president who has just removed the last obstacle to the plundering of the country's wealth by a network of ministers, officials and businesss; or fail to remove him and watch the nation start to disintegrate as investors flee, prices soar, jobs vanish, taxes rise and desperate people do whatever they can to survive."

For those of you who haven't been following this debacle, Zuma fired the one and only person, the finance minister, who had stood up to him and refused to allow him to plunder the nations resources to meet his own greedy ends.  He has been branded a thief, a liar, a narcissist, a mysogynist, a crook and a rapist and yet, he's still here!  He has pillaged and raped the coffers, placed his own cronies in the top positions and rid himself of anyone who disagreed with his tactics.  The Rand has plummeted once again and he sits in parliament giggling like the idiot that he is.  It has to be seen to be believed!

On the positive side, watching the parliament channel is more amusing and entertaining than most of the TV programs.  This could also be as a result of the fact that SABC, a previously very profitable entity, can't afford to purchase any decent programs and is currently holding out its hand to be bailed out of total decline due to squandering and corruption.  The same goes for SAA, the previously successful national airline as well as Eskom, the supplier of the nations power, which is now in a completely diabolical mess.  The radicals want to nationalise all banks, mines etc and occupy all land without compensation.  Farm murders are increasing at an alarming rate but rarely get mentioned in local news let alone in international media.  Time to move on!

And yet, I have to admit, South Africa is still one of the most beautiful countries I've ever had the privilege and pleasure to experience and hope lives eternal.  It's getting late but there's still a chance to turn it around but we're not exactly in our formative years anymore so yes, it's time for a change.

Wined, dined, entertained and spoiled rotten!

We've been back less than two months and what an incredible welcome we've received!

We have definitely been spoiled.  It's been non-stop eating, drinking and making merry from the moment we returned; greeted with a myriad of invitations from old friends and family with the added advantage of just happening to time things extremely well to be included in various celebrations.  So much for the diet I'd been planning embarking on after all our Christmas/New Year activities.

Besides all the local friends, we have met with both our ex next door neighbours from Durban 30 years ago which has been amazing and have had numerous get-togethers with departing cruisers.  It's been an incredible period of time but now the diet MUST start!

Our wonderful cruising friends, Bronte and Helmke, invited us to stay with them a few times and took us for a fabulous drive around the peninsula just to remind us how absolutely beautiful this part of the world really is.  There is little in this world that can compare to the drive along Chapman's Peak or the stunning views over Ou Kaapse Weg dropping down into the southern suburbs.  The sight of Table Mountain never ceases to amaze nor does the entire range of the Twelve Apostles with the nearby brilliant white sandy beaches and turquoise waters with houses to rival anything California has to offer poking out of the steep mountain sides overlooking them.  Just WOW!

One by one, the remaining international cruisers have left us behind.  Little by little, we are leaving an amazing way of life in the past.  In some respects I want to cry, in others, we are enthusiastically looking forward to new places, new challenges and new adventures.

The winds until very recently have been horrendous.  This is supposedly the best time of the year; beautiful sunny summer days, light breezes, warm (well slightly warm) waters - you know, perfect conditions.  Nope, not happening!  It's freezing out here on the boat, the water temperatures should be around 18° - 20°C but can't seem to make it past 14°.  The winds are howling a hoolie more days than not e.g. 35 to 60 knots which makes it impossible to work on the deck and we're huddled under blankets with thick socks on our feet!  Weathermen? come on guys, get your act together!

We'd been trying to find a small car to allow us some means of getting about (Simon's Town is a bit out of the way when it comes to getting boaty things).  We eventually did find a cute old Smart car with a very high mileage on the clock but we simply weren't in a position to buy anything fancy.  Our original foray came up with nothing but utter rubbish, things that I certainly would have been very wary driving around on my own but we just weren't finding anything suitable.  Suitable in my eyes would be a nice looking zooty vehicle with an aircon, good music system, electric windows, cruise control, etc. etc.  To Paul it would just be anything with four wheels that doesn't leave us stranded on the side of the road every other day.  An old friend, Eric, had lent us his little car to help us look which was fantastic and we eventually found the little Smart car which even has aircon, electric windows and a radio!  We simply couldn't get over how expensive second-hand cars are here.  My last new car cost less than this one which is 10 years old!  However, we hope to be able to sell it for about the same price prior to leaving South Africa.

When the wind occasionally subsides, the work projects get a bit of a boost on board Calypso and we've now officially placed her on the market with two agents.   We don't know whether to laugh or cry; she's been our home and transport for 13 years, taken us around the world and kept us safe.  How does one give this up without major sentiment?  Worldwide, there's an absolute plethora of boats on the market so we've tried to price her for a rapid sale.  In our eyes, she's worth a lot more but we have to be realistic and just pray we can find someone who will love her the way we have.  The Rand had improved just a tiny bit recently but took a major dive this past weekend when Zuma pulled a fast one by firing the well-respected finance minister and his deputy.  When we look at how drastically it has dropped since our departure in 2004, it's absolutely frightening to think how little we'll clear in Dollar or Euro terms.  However, we have to respect that she has been such a huge part of our lives and given us the means to see the world; we cannot complain.

More on the woes of South African politics and finances later.

PS:  sorry, still no photos; I desperately need a new computer but....... let's just say the purse strings are a bit tight at the moment and I'm still trying to salvage my drowned hard drive.

 

I guess we didn't come in unnoticed!

Nothing like signing off with a bit of drama!  Thanks to the NSRI, friends and club members, all four boats tied up safely.  Whew!

Around the world in 4459 days!

                                                Home!

OK, so it's not exactly a speed record but we did it!  12 years, 2 months and 15 days.  Nearly 45 000 nautical miles or 83,340 kilometres!

We're back in Simon's Town where it all started in 2004 and what an adventure it's been.  The people, the places, the islands, the seas, the sunsets, the foods: nothing can take away the memories of this amazing journey.  

We set off with five years in mind but it didn't take long to realise we didn't want to rush it and five years wasn't going to be near enough.  Although I really do admire those folk who race around the globe, I have to question the logic.  What do they see, who do they meet?  Do they ever sit on a beach to watch the sun go down?  Do they ever stop long enough to savour the variety of cuisine offered around the world?  To experience the culture and diversity each country has to offer?   To simply observe life from a foreign perspective?  And most importantly, to realise how privileged we were to be there in the first place?  We did all this and more!

We often wondered why more people don't get on a boat and sail away but in hindsight, thank goodness they don't, it would be awfully crowded out there and the solitude we experienced so often was half the charm.

Given the choice, would we do it all over again?  Most definitely and we wouldn't change much, not even the boat, except maybe give us a bow thruster next time and perhaps a nice big sugar scoop off the stern.  And while we're at it, a slightly bigger fridge and freezer and....... nah, leave that, they were just fine.  Calypso did us proud.

For all of you who followed our exploits, we hope you enjoyed travelling with us.  It wasn't always easy to stay in touch but we were fortunate to have so many friends back on the land and blessed beyond measure for all those we met along the way.

And now you ask, what's next?  What on earth does one do to follow on from this?  Neither of us is ready to sit back in a rocking chair to reflect on times and adventures past.  We will create new ones.  And so now, on to the next stage of our lives whatever that may hold.

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And now to tell the last tale of our trip into Simon's Town: this final leg of 214nm was some of the best sailing we've had, especially on the SA coast!  We thought we had ended on such a good note, sunny skies, perfect winds (wing-on-wing), moderate seas, a full moon, seals playing around us pretending to be dolphins and, to top it off, Paul caught a beautiful, big yellow-fin tuna.  Sushi H?

Our fabulous cruising friends, Bronte and Helmke were waiting to take our lines along with Roger, the chap who joined us leaving SA in 2004, and quite a few others.  The winds had picked up quite significantly, 25-30 knots, (NOT forecasted) but it was still lovely out there.  And then we rounded the corner with only a couple of miles to go and all hell broke loose.........45 knots gusting to 50 on the nose, we couldn't fight it!  Engine full on but we were not making any progress, rather we were getting forced closer and closer to the far shore.  We turned back and tried again but no luck.  

In the end, to our chagrin, the NSRI came out to tow us in but even that was a saga of its own.  Once they got us closer in, the conditions were marginally more protected so we made the turn into the marina on our own but got blown side on across the finger.  Not my moment of glory!  It took at least a dozen pairs of helping hands on shore to finally pull us straight and tie up!  Shatter nerves and shattered ego and one hell of a grand finale!  Thank goodness for the bottles of bubbly.

Mossel Bay - our penultimate stop!

We'd far rather be in here than out in those ¥#%*€ conditions offshore.  This looks like a great stop indeed.   

No sooner had we pulled into the harbour than we met a chap who had come to see Sandy, the Scotsman who had arrived at the same time (the poor Dane is still out there in horrible conditions).  He offered to take us to the yacht club, a short drive away, then down the beach a bit further for lunch.  Yup, definitely much better than out there.

Calamari and chips, a couple of cold ones, followed by a hot shower and a few hours kip; no complaints, we'll put up with this for a couple of days.

And so comes the last leg.  Thursday predictions (if we trust them) says we'll make it all the way.  Hope it's true as there's nowhere to stop in between.  Saturday morning should see us berthing in FBYC where it all started!