Almost there

Having left Minerva Reef on Sunday morning, we had good winds for several days but very big seas which made for a somewhat rolly ride.

However, conditions remained fine and we were making good time but have suddenly run into a hole, no wind. Our choices now would be to motor to get into Savusavu during office hours or just hang loose and take our time by spending another night out here enabling us to get in early on the Thursday morning. We've decided to take the latter option as it's really quite pleasant out here so why waste good diesel rushing to get in before 5 o'clock which may or may not be possible.

All's well, the fishing score is currently Calypso 2, Fish 2. We've caught two nice dorado(mahi mahi)and the fish have got away with two of our lures, one being Paul's brand new replacement for his favourite lure from last year. Damn!

We flew the genniker in light winds for most of the day today but discovered that our halyard has been graunched by the deck light fitting up the mast. Wish it had done this prior to leaving NZ, now how the hell do we find a replacement? We may have to arrange to have one sent up from New Zealand as I'd hate to think what it would cost to source one in Fiji.

So, we now expect to arrive on Thursday morning and will look forward to a nice curry lunch upon our arrival: Fiji is such a great place for good Indian fare.

Chilling out in Minerva

We are back in some form of communication after having lost our ability to send or receive on board emails upon leaving Opua. Very frustrating but thanks to Jackster, we were able to relay a couple of messages to indicate that all was well.

Having realised that we would not get to Savusavu (Fiji) by Friday, we slowed down and decided to head into Minerva Reef again to wait out the heavy overtime rates that are charged should one arrive out of office hours. We needed the rest anyway as our last night out was rather hideous. Paul had to pull an all-nighter changing or adjusting sails constantly. We'd even dragged a drogue for a while trying to slow ourselves down in rather rough seas.

We dropped anchor on Thursday morning in very windy conditions but well protected behind the reef here in Minerva North, made something to eat then dropped into bed for a well-deserved rest. After a few hours, we got up again, made something more to eat then dropped into bed again and slept like the proverbial logs 'til morning. Amazing what a good sleep can do to make the world feel right again.

On the fishing front, we managed to catch a smallish dorado (mahi mahi) on the way up which has given us a couple of excellent meals and are hoping to catch something on our way out of the reef when we leave. It's more than wonderful to have fresh fish again, something we missed terribly while in New Zealand, not because of the lack of fish there but, apart from a few small snapper, we were never out enough to drag lines and the fish in the supermarkets were priced beyond a joke. We were so successful in Fiji last year and can only pray the same will be the case this time around.

We hope to leave here again tomorrow morning (Sunday) and, depending on winds, will take us three to four days to get to Savusavu. We'll keep in touch if and when we can get a connection through our HF radio.

24 May anchored in north Minerva reef

All is well on board Calypso; at anchor in the calm waters of Minerva Reef.
Sent on behalf of Calypso.

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18th May 2012 - On route to Fiji

All is well on board Calypso, making good progress approx 160nm north east of New Zealand. This message comes by way of a relay as a computer to radio cable has failed aboard Calypso.

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More Boat Projects

We always think that we’re the only ones who are continually working on boat projects but the truth is, if you own a boat, there is a never-ending list of things that need to be seen to.  The difference is simply whether or not you have the money to employ someone else to do the job for you or whether you have to get stuck in and do it yourself.  Apart from major canvas work, we fall into the latter category hence; we’re always working on one project or another.

This year had many such jobs but the main ones were to replace our very shoddy spray dodger, replace all our incredibly leaky port lights and upgrade our water maker to deliver a little more than a couple of cups of water an hour.  OK, so the water remark is a slight exaggeration but one never has enough on a boat so Paul set out to change the whole system to give us twice as much.  The verdict is still out on the end result. (Update:  it works, we definitely have more water and hope it will be even better when we get out to cleaner, warmer seas).

The before and after photos of the spray dodger more or less tell the story.  We couldn’t see a damned thing through the old one, it leaked like a sieve, was torn in several places and we always had to lower it while entering any tricky reef or port.  That wasn’t too bad unless, of course, it was bucketing down with rain – not fun.  In order to get better visibility, it meant moving the life raft from its position behind the mast to a new spot in front, which meant drilling new holes through the coach roof, which meant getting to underneath all this inside, which meant lowering all the head-linings, which meant…….well, you get the picture.  In addition, all the woodwork had to be sanded, old holes filled and then varnished.

Before

After

Before

After

Our new one, albeit looking a tad like a Pope-mobile, gives us incredible visibility and protection but we are leaving with a slight sour taste in our mouths.  Despite promises, the shop that made it up has just recently changed hands and neither the old guy nor the new will do anything to sort out a couple of issues we have with the way it was made.  Business ethics are a little thin on the ground in this matter.  Anyway, at least we can see through it and stay dry underneath.

The old ones removed

The port lights have been a problem since day one.  Whoever made these up originally should be hung, drawn and quartered.  They were manufactured out of stainless steel but the corners where obviously a poorer grade and have caused serious rusting from the start.  Paul spent months on them on several occasions to try to overcome this but it never lasted more than a couple of months.  Poor Calypso was looking quite tawdry with severe rust stains all over the coach roof.  Also, because of the very cumbersome fixing system, with every rough passage, the leaks got worse and worse, damaging the internal woodwork and fraying the nerves of the ship’s crew.  The only solution was to remove them and replace with an entirely different system, so this is what we’ve done.

Cutting the new shapes

Before

Preparing for the installation

The new ones are galvanised aluminium with toughened glass and, wow, we can see out these now and no leaks. It cost us an arm and a leg but what a difference it makes.   

The finished  job

After

Now all we have to do is repair all the damaged internal woodwork to get her into the beautiful condition she deserves.

Out & about in the Bay of Islands

Farewell to Vagabond

On the social front, we have had to say our sad and fond farewells to Otto & Lil, our long time cruising buddies aboard Vagabond as they finally sailed out of Opua to move down to Tauranga.  This is where they are now busy starting up their new business and new life after receiving their New Zealand residency.

No sooner did they sail out of the bay where we waved and waved until we could no longer see them around the corner of the headland, than we were invited aboard Albatross III, another South African boat owned by Rob & Ruth.  As we were never able to move Calypso due to all the ongoing projects, we never got out to the outlying islands so they decided to take us away for a few days and show us what we were missing.  
 

Aboard Albatross, a nice big catamaran, we sailed to Roberton Island about two hours away where, as we rounded the headland, who did we find but Vagabond sitting waiting for us in the anchorage.  They were supposed to go on to an island much further out in the bay but …. well, a great excuse for yet another final, final farewell that evening.  However, the following morning, they did eventually sail away.

 
We then moved over to Moturua Island where we did a three-hour hike over the top and around the perimeter.  It was a beautiful day with some magnificent viewing spots out over the many islands of this, the Bay of Islands.

A snorkel was also on the agenda but……they can keep it!  The visibility was poor, the fish life grey and the water freezing.  I think I’ll wait ‘til we get back up to Fiji before I try that little lark again.

We had a great spinnaker run back to Opua and felt as though we’d been on holiday.  Thank you Rob & Ruth for a great trip and a wonderful weekend.

They have also just received their New Zealand residency so, like Vagabond, we’ll be leaving them behind when we sail back north.

We had met acouple while up in Fiji is Wattie, a kiwi and his partner (another South African), Diana, aboard Cariad.  By returning to New Zealand, Wattie has now completed his 17-year long circumnavigation.  Prior to leaving, he had built a house not far from here in Kerikeri and has now moved back in.  Di, after many years at sea is loving the opportunities that shore life offers and the fun of tramping around garage sales picking up bargains in an effort to furnish the otherwise completely empty house.   As a point of interest, he also built his wooden boat from scratch, all from wood grown on his land.

The house is on a farm, primarily growing kiwifruit but with a few cows and lots of persimmon trees as well.  We’ve been over several times for a braai (BBQ) and gathered bags of misshapen kiwifruit to bring back to the boat.  Only the perfectly shaped ones are kept for export purposes.  I’m living in hopes that they retain their reputation of being very slow to ripen when picked green so that we have plenty of fresh fruit when we get up to the islands. Meanwhile, she’s been busy making persimmon chutney and kiwifruit jam and Calypso is seeing some of the benefits of this production line.  

Kiwifruit  on the vine

We've just taken another trip out to the islands.  This time to scrape the bottom of the hull which has, in the five months we've been here, grown it's own entire eco system in the form of a reef.  It was certainly very sluggish going with all this excess growth.  However, what started off as just us and Albatross, ended with Cariad joining us as well as a couple of other boats.  One of these had a Hooka diving system which allowed the guys (Paul and Rob) to really get stuck in there without the encumbrance of tanks.  Paul usually free dives but the water is just so cold, he'd never be able to stay in long enough to complete the job.  It was done lickedy split with Rob's help so we were able to enjoy the rest of the time digging up our own mussels and partying with great food and company.

Ruth & Di with Di's mussel chowder

Anchored in cleaner water

Diana is yet another cruiser we will be leaving behind as she, too, has applied for NZ residency and, as a partner to a citizen, should have no problems staying in the country.  With the addition of Andrew from Mariposa who met a New Zealander in our homeport of Simon’s Town, this now makes two couples and two single friends who are stopping here permanently.  It’s going to feel awfully lonely out there on the high seas.

To all of them, we wish the very best of everything while they settle into their new homes.  We’re going to miss the camaraderie we experienced by knowing them and sharing islands and anchorages together.

PHOTO GALLERY:

Views from the top of Moturua Island

Di - the kitchen godess

With Ruth helping out

Rob -the braai  master

Our ducks: they came to our boat every day for breakfast AND dinner then disappeared for a while.  We discovered the reason - the arrival of Huey, Dewey & Louis.  They became so tame they even joined us in the cockpit for evening sundowners.

Earlier on, we also got out to do some hiking around Kerikeri where there are some lovely waterfalls and beautiful, well-maintained hiking trails.  New Zealand is a hiker's paradise.

Possums

 

We are about to take our final leave of New Zealand shores but somehow, I wouldn’t feel quite right if we left without mentioning one of the country’s most prolific inhabitants, the possum, or if you prefer, the opossum.  

The possum is a pest here, and a very serious one at that. They were introduced many years ago for the fur industry – their fur is unbelievably soft and gorgeous and, when mixed with merino wool, has created an industry of beautiful garments, especially anything to keep one warm and, don’t be fooled, New Zealanders need to have things to keep them warm – it gets mighty cold here.

Anyway, the poor possum is affectionately referred to as New Zealand’s natural little speed bumps.  They are nocturnal creatures and obviously not too bright as there are literally thousands to be found squashed on the roads every day.  Be that as it may, this does not go very far to eradicate a grave problem.  Possums breed like rabbits, eat everything in sight, destroy thousands of trees, kill the local bird population and generally, and understandably, are not very welcome here. 

Possum Trap

The Department of Conservation must spend millions of man hours (not to mention the millions of dollars) every year trying to get rid of these little blighters by laying traps and poison.  This is a prime example of what happens when man interferes and introduces a species that has no natural enemies.  The first possums were brought from Australia where they aren’t a problem as, in the natural chain of nature, they do have predators to keep them in check.  New Zealand has no poisonous or vicious anything – no snakes, no bitey spiders, no wild cats, no nothing other than a couple of small birds of prey – simply no contest.  Sadly, while laying poison in an attempt to control the situation, there is the inevitable collateral damage affecting other animals e.g. deer and domestic pets. 

Whoever finally comes up with a solution to this ongoing predicament, would either become an instantaneous local hero and/or incredibly wealthy.

These photos aren’t mine, 99.9% of the possums we’ve seen here are of the rather flattened variety but I just had to add some colour to this story.

Ya just  gotta smile!

  

Possum lined slippers

They can be quite cute

Possum & Merino socks

Possum Fur Blanket