Forteleza, Brazil

Forteleza was our final stop in Brazil. We’re now running out of our six-month visa so must press on northwards.

We had heard some very negative stories about Forteleza so were pleasantly surprised to find it to be not only relatively safe but full of life with runners, walkers, cyclists, aerobics and all other forms of exercise routines happening along the water front walkways. The evenings were amazingly busy with a huge variety of craft markets opening up once the sun went down. Strolling along the beachfront was a profusion of activity and colours with the ever present loud salsa music all around.

Forteleza is the capital of the province of Ceará and is huge, with a population of three and a half million. Entering from the ocean, our first sight was of miles upon miles of skyscrapers lining the shores. Quite impressive.

One thing that has really intrigued us while sailing off the Brazilian coastline was how busy it is out there. We spent each and every day and night dodging fishing boats, tankers, oil rigs and many many ‘jagandas’, tiny surfboard type fishing boats which can be found miles off shore. How these chaps manage such a small vessel in such conditions is either very admirable or very stupid. We were shocked at the distances they travelled.

We spent a couple of evenings at the very vibrant area of Iracema which is full of sidewalk cafes, outdoor artists and parties galore. The restaurants all served an incredible array of sea foods and the streets were alive with music. The Brazilians really know how to have a good time.

While there, we made a rare stop at a marina as we had heard the public anchorage wasn’t safe. We later met some friends who were there and were desperate to leave as they felt somewhat threatened. Our choice was definitely the best option. And what a pleasure it was as the marina was right in front of a very fancy hotel with fabulous gardens and swimming pools which we were allowed to use. Needless to say, we made the most of them.

While we were there, we experienced an incredibly low tide and, despite the fact that we were told our draft was no problem at the marina, we woke up one morning after feeling a few bumps and looked outside. We seemed to be so high up from the water and, upon stepping onto the pier, discovered why. This photo shows Calypso’s waterline a good foot or so above the sea level – we were sitting on our keel, held up by our mooring lines. Fortunately, the bottom was soft and caused no damage.

Our main objective was to load up with provision before hitting the more expensive Caribbean islands. The shops were good and the prices better so Calypso was loaded down again.

PHOTO ALBUM:

A 'Jaganda’ miles offshore