Wednesday, 23 February 2005

Gamboa, Galeao & Morro de Sao Paulo


Talk about chalk and cheese. We left the hubbub of the city of Salvador to find some peace and quiet and that is exactly what we found by following the river some 40 miles further south. Well, its not actually a river although it appeared that way to us. There are quite a few islands right up close to the mainland which create the illusion of rivers and tributaries and, because of silting, you can't sail out through the other side.

The first village of Morro de São Paulo is a favourite weekend spot for the city folk with wonderful beaches and sandy paths between the many restaurants and shops. Apart from this one, the other village along this route are primarily fishing villages, most with absolutely no roadways therefore no cars.



Dozens of fishing boats, canoes, dugout sailboats and water taxis plough their way through the waters. These are a little like a maze as the fishermen lay their nets any and everywhere so that, in order to manoeuvre down, we had to zig zag constantly to avoid getting our prop tangled. We also managed to get stuck on the sandy bottom a couple of times, once because I took a turn down the wrong tributary and once because the sand bank had moved from one position to the next and fooled us. Nothing serious though - we're told that if you haven't hit the bottom, at least once, you're either lying or you haven't been cruising.





Our stops included the gorgeous little village of Gamboa with it's lovely white sandy beaches followed by a visit to the only town with cars, Valencia. We then carried on further to Ponto do Curral, an uninhabited islands with a coconut plantation and white beaches, and then further on to Galeao, another fishing village with a very delapidated church on the hill with a magnificent view of the entire region. Lastly, we visited the monastery town of Cairu before running out of deep water. The people were all so wonderfully friendly and hospitable. We were rather reluctant to leave as it meant heading back to Salvador to get ready to move on further north.





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Tuesday, 22 February 2005

Maragogipe & Cachoeira


Maragogipe is a very small fishing village situated on the other side of Baia de Toros dos Santos up the Rio Paraguaçu.

The trip up the river was our first experience of winding our way up a narrow passage however, it presented no problems and was quite a change from the open waters of the ocean.

Maragogipe is charming and picturesque and made us feel as though we'd stepped back a hundred years. The popular mode of transport is still the donkey or horse or, in some cases, cattle.

We found a terrific market selling the best variety of vegetables we’d seen in a long time but have to confess that the meat market left a tad to be desired.

To get a better feel of the countryside, we took a local bus up to the town of Cachoeira, another delightful village where tourism is all but unheard of.

Carnival hadn’t bypassed these little out-of-the-way villages completely but sufficiently to render them so peaceful in comparison to Salvador. We thoroughly enjoyed wandering around these two towns, ‘chatting’ to the locals and enjoying the ice cold beers that are available every step of the way.


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Tuesday, 15 February 2005

Itaparica


Itaparica proved to be such a welcome relief after all the partying of Carnival in Salvador. The sea, although not pristine, was at least swimmable and the noise level much, much reduced. We took a dinghy trip through some of the mangrove swamps and saw many very primitive dugout canoes which are still being used today.

Our highlight was a trip that we took in our big dinghy (Hip Hop) down the waterway between the mainland and the island where we met Marconi, a Salvador resident who owns a summer home south of Itaparica. He insisted we go to his home to top us up with some petrol for the outboard. There we met his wife, Katrine, who immediately would not take 'no' for an answer when they invited us to stay for lunch. And what a lunch! Freshly caught fish (they have their very own enormous fish pond in the garden) and wonderful, wonderful crab. They were just so incredibly hospital, we simply couldn't thank them enough. What a lovely experience it was.

Itaparica is locally famous for its fresh well water - crystal clear water which bubbles out of the ground in several spots around the island. We pulled into the marina for the night which enabled us to empty out all our old water and top up with the good stuff, what a pleasure.

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